My Kiswahili is a bit rusty, but I think that's how you say it! I have returned to Dar es Salaam!
Four weeks at Wild Palms Campsite was incredible. I don’t think I’ll really be able to sum up all of it in one blog post, so maybe I can make posts as I think of things. Internet is still unreliable though, or nonexistent most times, so posts will still occur sparingly.
We’ve arrived at our host family’s home now in Dar Es Salaam. It’s lovely. Joanne and I are sharing a room while Heather has the one next door. This home is cozy and sophisticated; there are big leather couches and even a TV! In the mornings we are expected for breakfast and chai whenever we feel ready to come downstairs and so far rule wise we have to let Mama know when we are going out and how we are getting back home. Today Joanne, Heather, and I went out for a (5 hour) stroll around the nearest parts of Dar to reacquaint ourselves with the city life and just see what’s going on. It’s a beautiful day! A nicely humid and sunny low to mid 90s. I got an awful sunburn. But it was so worth it! There is definitely some culture shock to be in a city again, but I’m glad to have these three weeks here before returning to the real culture shock of the US. We journeyed through the winding and shack lined streets of Survey. We popped out at Mwenge and wandered through the back-end where we came upon a church group singing, so we sat and listened to the service for a few minutes and then made our way to a restaurant where we ate some chipsi (potato fries) and split a coka-cola. This next part is what gets me the most – we walk to Mlimani City mall (a very western style place) and went into a grocery store where there were CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS! Now, you have to understand that over the last several weeks I have been listening to Christmas music almost nonstop on my iPod. Lena, Nikki and I even had an entire conversation about Christmas traditions one day on our walk to the Maasai women’s co-op near Wild Palms. It’s been that nice little reminder that something wonderful will be happening when I get home soon – but I had no expectation of seeing it here! It was one of the strangest experiences I’ve had, and that’s saying something. There were Christmas trees, wrapping paper, reindeer figures and elves all over the place. I was in a confused but jolly state through the whole experience.
As I sit here writing this, a few things about my time up North are coming to mind. First of all, I should say much of my days were passed by transcribing my interviews and then going out for more. To be honest, our time camping was slow going and monotonous, broken up by reading, playing card games, Bananagrams, and having an occasional dance party in our dining shack. For a few days in the beginning we had an excellent visit from ACM staff and they helped to rejuvenate our interest in our research projects and give us the motivation that comes from knowing someone wants you to succeed. Last Sunday we even had the Tanzania Olympics where we competed in make-shift Frisbee golf, a relay, and an obstacle course. It was all fun and our creativity got us through even the longest and hottest of days. The only thing that really bugged me about the campsite were the insects. They were huge! We had scorpions, centipedes, millipedes, beetles, roaches, mosquitos, flies and everything in between. I know that when I get back to the states my tolerance for that type of wildlife will have definitely gone up – no more need to squish bugs in my room, dad! My fear of those things was the number one thing that made me most eager to return to Dar. While in the field we formed some great relationships with our safari/camp staff and translators. They were a happy bunch of people who were open to our endless questions about Tanzanian culture and made sure to help us practice our Swahili whenever we asked for it. I was dubbed Dada Mbuzi (Sister Goat) by one of our drivers because he noticed that I liked to walk over and play with the baby goats and sheep at the end of my interviews! The staff cooked us excellent food for every meal and even let us sit atop the safari cars at night to watch for shooting stars (I once saw five in one night!).
Now, about my project. I am so in love with my project. It has morphed into something I think I always wanted it to be. When I first began interviewing Maasai women, I realized that what I really wanted to know was how they came to be who they are. Therefore, my project is about the process of being defined as a woman in Maasai culture. Through interviewing women and spending a great amount of time in their bomas, I found out how beautiful and unique their culture is. There are so many amazing things I learned that will not even have a place in my research, but the simplicity and respectfulness of their lives has left a lovely impression on me. Not to mention I had the chance to listen to the Kimaasai language everyday! It’s composed of the most intricate series of bell-like tongue rolls and sweet, soft inflections at the beginning and end of each word. I am so glad I chose to work with the Maasai for my research project. With all the changes their population is going through from dealing with drought and starvation to being pushed out of certain areas by the government for National Parks, it’s hard to tell if their culture will be around for much longer in the way that it is now.
I think that’s all I can gather out of my thoughts for right now to share, but next week I will try again to give some more insight on my trip! I can’t believe it – but I’ll be back in the US in less than three weeks already!
*thanks to dad I found out this post didn't show up the first time. This is from November 16, but all is still relevant!
We’ve arrived at our host family’s home now in Dar Es Salaam. It’s lovely. Joanne and I are sharing a room while Heather has the one next door. This home is cozy and sophisticated; there are big leather couches and even a TV! In the mornings we are expected for breakfast and chai whenever we feel ready to come downstairs and so far rule wise we have to let Mama know when we are going out and how we are getting back home. Today Joanne, Heather, and I went out for a (5 hour) stroll around the nearest parts of Dar to reacquaint ourselves with the city life and just see what’s going on. It’s a beautiful day! A nicely humid and sunny low to mid 90s. I got an awful sunburn. But it was so worth it! There is definitely some culture shock to be in a city again, but I’m glad to have these three weeks here before returning to the real culture shock of the US. We journeyed through the winding and shack lined streets of Survey. We popped out at Mwenge and wandered through the back-end where we came upon a church group singing, so we sat and listened to the service for a few minutes and then made our way to a restaurant where we ate some chipsi (potato fries) and split a coka-cola. This next part is what gets me the most – we walk to Mlimani City mall (a very western style place) and went into a grocery store where there were CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS! Now, you have to understand that over the last several weeks I have been listening to Christmas music almost nonstop on my iPod. Lena, Nikki and I even had an entire conversation about Christmas traditions one day on our walk to the Maasai women’s co-op near Wild Palms. It’s been that nice little reminder that something wonderful will be happening when I get home soon – but I had no expectation of seeing it here! It was one of the strangest experiences I’ve had, and that’s saying something. There were Christmas trees, wrapping paper, reindeer figures and elves all over the place. I was in a confused but jolly state through the whole experience.
As I sit here writing this, a few things about my time up North are coming to mind. First of all, I should say much of my days were passed by transcribing my interviews and then going out for more. To be honest, our time camping was slow going and monotonous, broken up by reading, playing card games, Bananagrams, and having an occasional dance party in our dining shack. For a few days in the beginning we had an excellent visit from ACM staff and they helped to rejuvenate our interest in our research projects and give us the motivation that comes from knowing someone wants you to succeed. Last Sunday we even had the Tanzania Olympics where we competed in make-shift Frisbee golf, a relay, and an obstacle course. It was all fun and our creativity got us through even the longest and hottest of days. The only thing that really bugged me about the campsite were the insects. They were huge! We had scorpions, centipedes, millipedes, beetles, roaches, mosquitos, flies and everything in between. I know that when I get back to the states my tolerance for that type of wildlife will have definitely gone up – no more need to squish bugs in my room, dad! My fear of those things was the number one thing that made me most eager to return to Dar. While in the field we formed some great relationships with our safari/camp staff and translators. They were a happy bunch of people who were open to our endless questions about Tanzanian culture and made sure to help us practice our Swahili whenever we asked for it. I was dubbed Dada Mbuzi (Sister Goat) by one of our drivers because he noticed that I liked to walk over and play with the baby goats and sheep at the end of my interviews! The staff cooked us excellent food for every meal and even let us sit atop the safari cars at night to watch for shooting stars (I once saw five in one night!).
Now, about my project. I am so in love with my project. It has morphed into something I think I always wanted it to be. When I first began interviewing Maasai women, I realized that what I really wanted to know was how they came to be who they are. Therefore, my project is about the process of being defined as a woman in Maasai culture. Through interviewing women and spending a great amount of time in their bomas, I found out how beautiful and unique their culture is. There are so many amazing things I learned that will not even have a place in my research, but the simplicity and respectfulness of their lives has left a lovely impression on me. Not to mention I had the chance to listen to the Kimaasai language everyday! It’s composed of the most intricate series of bell-like tongue rolls and sweet, soft inflections at the beginning and end of each word. I am so glad I chose to work with the Maasai for my research project. With all the changes their population is going through from dealing with drought and starvation to being pushed out of certain areas by the government for National Parks, it’s hard to tell if their culture will be around for much longer in the way that it is now.
I think that’s all I can gather out of my thoughts for right now to share, but next week I will try again to give some more insight on my trip! I can’t believe it – but I’ll be back in the US in less than three weeks already!
*thanks to dad I found out this post didn't show up the first time. This is from November 16, but all is still relevant!